Gabriel Fava reports that he and other Argentine climbers have established many new routes at the Agujas Del Glaciar Fría (31°45'41.80"S, 69°51'34.30"W), an area of remote, high-elevation granite needles along the eastern ramparts of Ansilta 7 (5,780m), which is the tallest and only glaciated peak in the Cordillera de Ansilta.

The needles are reached by a two-day approach from the town of Barreal, which lies to the east. Along the way, there are some nice bouldering areas at a camp in the grassy tundra (3,100m) and at base camp (4,100m). Fava established the first technical rock climb in the zone, Alegría (230m, 6c), in 2014 on the Aguja Nico Made (ca 4,700m; see AAJ 2015). The area now hosts established routes across six major rock groupings, which are described below in order of ascending elevation. Unless otherwise noted, the routes described were climbed in January 2021.

Grupo Murallón de los Pliegues is an isolated, east-facing wall on the south side of the valley below the Glaciar de la Fría; there are seven routes here to 6b+ and 200m.

The remaining groups are located below Ansilta 7’s east ridge and face predominantly southeast. Grupo Murallón de la Cascada contains three routes, the longest of which is Danza Con Vientos Salvajes (250m, 6b+) on Aguja el Tocho, established by Natasie Brucher and Carlos Molina in October 2019. A second tower, Aguja el Mago, contains two routes up to 6+ and 100m.

The next area, Grupo Castillo de Naipes, contains two routes to 6b+ and 120m. Above this is the aptly named Torre de la Botella, which has yet to see an attempt. The prominent tower Aguja Nico Made comprises the fourth grouping. Of note is the new route left of Alegría, climbed by Daniella Avellaneda, Gabriel Fava, and Joaquin Gomez, which they called Ojito, Ojete, Cuidate, Querete (270m, 6c). The final group, adjacent to the glacier, comprises La Última Agujita, also awaiting an attempt.

Current photographic topos and information can be found at the Escalada en San Juan website: www.sites.google.com/site/escaladaensanjuan

– Erik Rieger, with information from Gabriel Fava, Argentina