On August 24, at approximately 9:40 a.m., Chaitanya Sathe (35), a well-known and admired member of the Mazamas, suffered a fatal fall of approximately 100 feet while descending 3rd- or 4th-class terrain into the Lower Gorge. A number of accidents have occurred over the years on this climber trail, with at least one other fatality (ANAC 2008). Fourth-class climbing or descents require balance and care, particularly when carrying a heavy pack.

Since this accident, several volunteers have worked to make the routes into the Lower Gorge safer for climbers. The Chimney approach has new stainless-steel rungs at the top and a metal ladder at the bottom to replace an old wooden one. There also have been improvements to the steep descent trail (where the above accident occurred), including better steps and flatter surfaces, but climbers nevertheless must remain vigilant while descending.

There were four other reported climbing accidents at Smith Rock. The first was on April 21 on Lion’s Jaw (5.8 trad) at the Morning Glory Wall. A belayer was injured when her climbing partner fell and pulled out several pieces of gear the large fall pulled the belayer into the air, where she collided with the leader. She was able to self-evacuate.

The next day, on Wherever I May Roam (5.9), a popular multi-pitch sport climb, a climber (female, mid-20s) led the first pitch and then incorrectly rigged her belay device (attempting to belay directly from the anchor in “guide mode”). When her partner (male, 20s) fell a couple of bolts up, she was unable to arrest the fall. The climber suffered back and leg injuries, and the belayer suffered rope burns to her hands.

A very similar accident occurred on June 1 at the Red Wall on the first pitch of Super Slab (5.6 trad). Again, after ascending the first pitch, the belayer rigged his device incorrectly in guide mode, and when the second slipped a third of the way up, he was unable to arrest her fall. She suffered back injuries, and the belayer had rope burns on his hands. In both of these incidents, the belayers failed to load their devices correctly for belaying off the bolted anchor. It is essential to get proper instruction and always test that your belay device will lock under a load prior to bringing up the second.

The final reported accident occurred on August 16, when a male climber fell at the pin-scar crux halfway up Sunshine Dihedral (5.12a), pulling out multiple pieces of gear he had placed above the route’s first bolt. He fractured his right tibia/fibula.

Evacuations in these incidents were performed by Deschutes County SAR and Redmond Fire Department. (Source: Deschutes County SAR.)