Parchamo, West Face of North Ridge

Nepal, Rolwaling Himal
Author: Tad Welch. Climb Year: 1996. Publication Year: 2020.

In November 1996, Kili Sherpa and I climbed a line on the far left side of the west face of Parchamo (6,273m) to reach the shoulder on the north ridge at around 5,950m. From our camp at approximately 5,485m on the Drolambo (Drolambau) Glacier, we began the route at a rock band of excellent granite, split by obvious cracks that led to good climbing on a mix of snow and rock. This was followed by steep névé.  Fifteen pitches brought us to the normal route on the north ridge. We descended from there, reaching our tents on Tesi Lapcha Pass (5,755m) by midnight.

This line is well to the left of the direct route climbed in 2014 by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva (USA). In Villanueva's photo published in AAJ 2015 (see photo below with the 2014 line), it lies left of the obvious large serac formations on an upper hanging glacier. The face had much more snow in 1996 and the seracs were less menacing.

– Tad Welch, USA   



Media Gallery