Cerro de los Diablos, First Ascent

Argentina Central Andes
Author: Marcelo Scanu. Climb Year: 2019. Publication Year: 2020.

image_2From October 21–27, Argentines Ezequiel Dassie and Glauco Muratti made the first ascent of an interesting 5,000m peak in the remote northern section of the Cordón del Potrero Escondido.

They began the expedition in Penitentes, at 2,400m on the road that connects Argentina and Chile, then headed southward by the Quebrada de Vargas, camping at 3,800m at the Portezuelo Serrata. The next day they descended to the Río Blanco valley (3,300m) and continued into the Cajón Norte del Potrero Escondido. They erected camp at 3,800m and the next day at 4,100m in a place they called La Cancha. They had good weather during the mornings and snowfall in the afternoons.


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It was not possible to climb the mountain by its north face, as planned, because of rotten rock. So, during the fourth day they ascended 30º snow slopes, class III rock sections, and scree to a 4,790m col east of the summit. From here, the ridge was guarded by large rock towers, so they traversed along the east-southeast face and then climbed directly to the summit up 40º snow with some easy but exposed mixed passages. The official height of the summit is 5,007m; their GPS showed 5,090m (32º58´30"S, 69º55´48"W).

They rated their route PD and suggest the name Cerro de los Diablos for the mountain, since the curious-looking rock towers on the summit ridge looked to the climbers like dancing devils. Their exit from the mountains took two days under heavy snowfall.

–       Marcelo Scanu, Argentina



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