Yawash Sar II, West Face, Attempt

Pakistan, Karakoram, Ghujerab Mountains, Khunjerab Subgroup
Author: Jerzy Wala. Climb Year: 2018. Publication Year: 2020.

The west face of unclimbed Yawash II with the route attempted by Krzysztof Wielicki and Jalal Uddin in 2018.  Above the narrows, this face is around 850m high. Photo by Karim Hayat

The peaks of Yawash Sar (I, 6,258m; II, 6,125m; and III, 6,060m) are the most prominent summits of the Khunjerab Subgroup. The naming of these peaks, like the glaciers on their northern flanks, comes from the Yawash Jilga River, which appears on the 1986–1987 China-Pakistan boundary maps. Yawash I and II have aroused interest since 2011, when a small expedition led by Janusz Majer and Krzysztof Wielicki published photos of these peaks from the north.

In 2012, Frank Gasser and Birgit Walk climbed Yawash Sar Middle (5,786m) from the Ghidims Valley to the south. Their goal had been Yawash Sar I (6,258m) but Gasser confused the approach valleys. He returned in 2014 and, following the correct valley, was able to make an unsuccessful attempt on Yawash Sar I.

In 2018, Krzysztof Wielicki led an 11-member trekking group, mainly Polish, to the Ghidims Valley. This group included Gasser and a high-altitude porter from Shimshal named Jalal Uddin. Base camp was established at 4,900m on a lateral moraine of the North Ghidims Glacier. During the acclimatization phase, Gasser made two solo attempts on Yawash Sar I, reaching 5,800m.

On August 18, Wielicki, Katarzyna Karwecka-Wielicka, and Jalal Uddin camped below the west face of Yawash Sar II. Karwecka-Wielicka became ill, so on the 20th, Wielicki and Uddin made an attempt on the face, with the idea to fix part of the route. They reached 5,800m, but due to lack of rope decided to retreat, and everyone returned to Shimshal on the 24th.

– Jerzy Wala, Poland, translated by Monika Hartman

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