From August 23–27, we (Simon Bustamante and Felipe Proaño) ventured to the Parón Valley, north of Huaraz. On August 25, after summiting La Esfinge by the 1985 route in about four hours, we spent the afternoon hiking over to scout a line up an interesting formation to the northeast. We later realized this was Putka Chico (5,380m). [Editor’s note: This a western satellite of Nevado Putka (5,585m), which also has been called Putaca and may have been called Aguja Nevada Chica by past parties (see AAJ 1975 and 1978). It is part of a chain of peaks that extends northeast from La Esfinge (Cerro Parón, 5,300m) through several Putka and Aguja peaks to the Caraz group.]

That same day we opened six pitches on the south face, reaching a col along a knife-edge ridge below the prominent upper wall. Our ascent was stalled by a snowstorm and we descended. The next morning, August 26, after hiking up the moraine, we re-climbed the six pitches and then climbed five additional pitches of low technical difficulty on good granite via a system of dihedrals to reach the very loose summit.

Our 11-pitch route, Justo en las Ganas! (350m, 5.10-), climbs the most prominent line on the south face up its eastern rib. This was likely the first ascent of this face, but prior ascent information is lacking. This route is also most likely the easiest route in the Paron Valley—a great warm-up line for La Esfinge. We left rappel anchors of slings around blocks backed up with nuts. 

–       Felipe Proaño and Simon Bustamante, Ecuador