Peak 6,050m, Southeast Face
India, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur District, Baspa Valley
Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr, and Guido Unterwurzacher traveled to the Baspa Valley in late September, looking for interesting technical objectives. Despite unstable weather during their short reconnaissance and acclimatization period, they succeeded in climbing an unnamed peak of 6,050m (31°27’1.52”N, 78°19’59.67”E), northeast of Sangla village on the long curving ridge between Jorkanden and Raldang.
Starting from near Rakcham village, the climbers ascended northward to a plateau in the Gor Garang valley before turning west and crossing a pass to a camp at 3,200m in the Saro Gad (valley). Above this, the team made two bivouacs, at 4,400m and 5,000m, before taking a reasonably direct line up the southeast face, with moderate mixed terrain, for around 1,000m. They reached the summit at 9:45 a.m. on October 5. There is no record of any previous ascent, and the team was informed by locals that the peak was unclimbed.
– Damien Gildea, with information from Hansjörg Auer, Austria