I first saw Eagle Peak East (5,300m) in the fall of 2013, after completing the first ascent of Dayantianwo in the Shuangqiao Valley (AAJ 2014). While enjoying the spectacular view from the summit, my wife, Szu-ting Yi, and I noticed a large shark’s tooth spire just to the north. We later learned this mountain was part of the Eagle Rock group, a prominent trio of rock towers that rise above Baihaizi Lake.

Eagle Peak East had only one published ascent, in August 2007, by a Japanese team that followed the lower-angled southwest face. Toshio Hirayama, Keiichi Nagatomo, Naoki Ouchi (also spelled Ohuchi), Kazuko Ouchi, and Yoshiaki Senoh also referred to the peak as Wagrusei (Warglesei in AAJ 2015). They completed their 680m route, Kyousai, in 16 pitches at 5.10c A1.

On September 12 we returned to the Shuangqiao Valley and established a base camp at the foot of Eagle Peak East. The weather was unsettled—we experienced rain and snow almost every day. We initially attempted a route up the south face following a central chimney and crack system. The line turned out to be the main drainage for the upper section of the peak, which made for challenging, wet climbing. In addition, we found numerous bolts and pitons on the first two pitches from an unknown attempt.

Not wanting to follow someone else’s route in a waterspout, we rappelled and looked for other options. We eventually settled on a route up the southeast face, fixed four ropes, and waited for a break in the weather. On September 23 we jugged our ropes and continued up sparsely protected steep slabs. At a large ledge system we traversed to the east ridge and followed featured granite to the summit. We rappelled our route, arriving back at base camp after 18 hours of effort. No bolts or pins were placed during the ascent or descent. We called the route Secret Moon Cake (760m 5.10 R), after the delicious pastries people in China enjoy during the mid-autumn festival.

Dave Anderson, USA