Mt. Silliman (11,188’) is a popular summit for peak baggers in Sequoia National Park. This is for good reason: It has a commanding view, is accessible as a day hike, and is on the Sierra Peaks Section list. In addition to its easier scrambles, the peak’s featured orange rock has two routes on its 800’ west face, one up its northwest ridge and a short route up its northeast shoulder. (R.J. Secor’s guidebook details these.) The steep north face, however, had no reported routes.

Bryan Lang and I set off for the north face in mid-June, planning for a long day. (The approach alone covers 16 miles and nearly 6,000’ of elevation gain.) Once there we completed an enjoyable, direct route up the right side of the north face. The wall was very steep, and we had a light rack with no bolt kit, so we focused on a chimney system with several roofs. This was fun and straightforward and ended directly on the summit: North Chimney (600’, 5.9).

– Daniel Jeffcoach