Climbing Fitz Roy, 1968: Reflections on the Lost Photos of the Third Ascent

By Yvon Chouinard, Dick Dorworth, Chris Jones, Lito Tejada-Flores, and Doug Tompkins
Author: David Stevenson. Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

Climbing Fitz Roy, 1968: Reflections on the Lost Photos of the Third Ascent. Yvon Chouinard, Dick Dorworth, Chris Jones, Lito Tejada-Flores, Doug Tompkins. Patagonia Books, 2013. 144 pages. Hardcover. $35.

The iconic 1968 climb is reflected on here, 45 years after the fact, by all its luminary principals except Chouinard (who is behind the scenes as publisher). The climb is deservedly well-known as inspiration for Chouinard’s business ventures, Tejada-Flores’ film (Fitzroy Patagonia, Mountain of Storms), and for embodying Chouinard’s prophetic (and oft-cited) statement from his essay “Modern Yosemite Climbing” (AAJ 1963): “Yosemite Valley will, in the near future, be the training ground for a new generation of super alpinists who will venture forth to the high mountains of the world to do the most esthetic and difficult walls on the face of the earth.” It was also, of course, one hell of an adventure.

The photos, lost by Jones in a 1996 wildfire, were found years later by Dorworth, who had copies stored in various caches. The book has the feel of an archival family document authenticating the stuff of legend. The photographs have been lovingly restored, but are clearly “historic.” Though the essays are necessarily reflective, i.e. backward-gazing, they are fresh and interesting, which should not be surprising considering the accomplishments of this rare assemblage of characters.

Two takeaways here: What would you most hate to lose in a wildfire? Back it up! And, don’t forget to have your own “trip of a lifetime.”

This is a beautiful and essential artifact.

David Stevenson



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