Anidesh Chuli (6,808m), northeast face to east ridge, attempt

Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Himal
Author: Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO. Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

Officially brought onto the permitted list in 2002, Anidesh Chuli (formerly known as White Wave) had no recorded attempts until April and May. The New Zealand team comprised of Ben Dare, Andrei Dusschoten, Rob Frost, and Scott Scheele had planned to use yaks to reach base camp on the Ramtang Glacier. However, they were unable to move past the start of this glacier, and with porters unavailable, the team lost nearly a week ferrying loads to an upper base camp at 4,800m, and thence to an advanced base (5,100m) at the foot of the Ramtang icefall.

From here to Camp 1 (5,500m), the route went through the icefall, trending right toward the north-northwest ridge. One 30m section was left fixed. Above, the team climbed through a rocky buttress, then traversed flat névé below the northeast face (heavily threatened by a serac barrier) to place Camp 2 at 6,000m on a small snow rib north-northeast of Col 6,350m on the east ridge of Anidesh Chuli.

On May 2 all four climbers grouped at Camp 2, and two days later Dare and Scheele left for the east ridge. They planned to climb direct to the crest at ca 6,500m, place Camp 3, and the next day continue toward the summit. Dare and Scheele first climbed 200m of 30–40°, then linked snowy ramps separated by ice cliffs (up to 80°). On the last pitch below the ridge, transitioning from steep ice to snow, Scheele took an 80–90m fall, sustaining head injuries that left him unconscious for five minutes. It was 3:30 p.m. The cloud was thick and there was blowing snow. Dare reached Scheele and lowered him to 6,350m, where they bivouacked.

Still confused the next day, Scheele was lowered to Camp 2, which the pair reached at 2:30 p.m. Dare activated an emergency locator beacon, registered in New Zealand. This resulted in a call to Dusschoten and Frost's satellite phone—they were resting in base camp, and this was the first they knew of the accident. This pair set out the same afternoon and reached Camp 2 at 3 a.m. on the 6th. The team used a satellite phone to call for a helicopter, which arrived at 10:30 a.m., and both Dare and Scheele were flown to Kathmandu, arriving only 45 hours after the accident, a great credit to the crew from Fishtail Air.

The team feels the east ridge provides the easiest route to the top, though in 2013 the summit was barred by a large ice cliff that would have to be circumvented either via the steep south face or below it to gain the north-northwest ridge. An ascent of the latter appeared broken by many ice cliffs. They also note that the original Slovenian route (1974) on Chang Himal (6,802m) was very broken, and a better line would now perhaps be directly up the center of the south face. There is also an appealing line to the summit of Ramtang (6,601m) via a narrow couloir on the right side of its unclimbed southwest face.

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, from information provided by Ben Dare, New Zealand, and Rodolphe Popier, Himalayan Database, France



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