Statistical Tables, Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III
1951-85
USA
1959-85
CAN.
1986
USA
1986
CAN.
Terrain
Rock
2228
281
150
15
Snow
1369
232
38
11
Ice
103
43
5
5
River
12
3
0
0
Unknown
16
6
2
0
Ascent or Descent
Ascent
1925
286
154
21
Descent
1379
199
47
10
Unknown
227
41
1
0
Immediate Cause
Fall or slip on rock
1399
138
117
9
Slip on snow or ice
541
106
20
6
Falling rock or object
292
85
21
6
Exceeding abilities
240
26
21
0
Avalanche
213
86
1
3
Exposure
172
12
10
0
Stranded
148
35
3
1
Illness1
138
12
11
0
Failure of Rappel
132
16
2
2
Loss of control/voluntary glissade
125
11
2
0
Fall into crevasse/moat
89
26
4
3
Piton pulled out
67
12
1
0
Failure to follow route
66
15
8
2
Faulty use of crampons
38
3
2
0
Lightning
34
3
0
0
Skiing
29
6
1
1
Nut/chock pulled out
23
3
4
0
Ascending too fast
6
0
2
0
Equipment failure
4
2
0
0
Other2
44
8
13
1
Unknown
43
7
2
0
Contributory Causes
Climbing unroped
692
93
28
3
Exceeding abilities
680
115
12
3
Inadequate equipment
399
46
17
0
Weather
237
22
15
0
Climbing alone
219
32
6
3
Placed no/inadequate protection
147
17
39
4
Darkness
81
11
3
0
Nut/chock pulled out
80
3
14
0
No hard hat
79
9
15
1
Piton pulled out
74
8
1
2
Party separated
63
12
3
1
Exposure
41
9
2
0
Failure to test holds
35
6
6
4
Inadequate belay
16
2
8
3
Poor position
13
1
5
4
Failed to follow directions
13
1
6
0
Illness1
7
1
10
1
Equipment failure
3
2
1
0
Other2
88
22
11
4
1951-85
1959-85
1986
1986
USA
CAN.
USA
CAN.
Age of Individuals
Under 15
93
11
2
0
15-20
976
172
15
1
21-25
1010
185
72
7
26-30
586
131
54
7
31-35
290
61
25
1
36-50
392
71
34
7
Over 50
52
8
3
1
Unknown
565
263
9
16
Experience Level
None/Little
1214
202
17
20
Moderate (1 to 3 years)
1038
221
32
13
Experienced
748
227
59
7
Unknown
779
192
62
0
Month of Year
January
125
6
3
0
February
132
29
6
0
March
175
30
2
2
April
198
16
15
2
May
406
31
49
1
June
529
31
22
2
July
648
157
29
5
August
580
157
24
15
September
886
29
27
0
October
207
23
12
2
November
108
3
6
0
December
30
8
0
2
Type of Injury/Illness
Fracture
123
8
67
10
Bruise
34
3
12
2
Abrasion
37
2
20
2
Laceration
48
3
29
2
Sprain/strain
28
5
11
1
Concussion
14
3
6
1
Dislocation
*
*
10
0
Puncture
7
1
3
1
Frostbite
12
0
6
0
HAPE3
7
0
6
0
Acute Mountain Sickness
2
0
2
0
CE
0
0
1
0
Hypothermia
10
2
8
3
Other4
36
3
21
4
None
7
0
7
0
'These include: a) CO poisoning (2); b) pneumonia (1); c) HAPE and CE (7); d) fatigue/ exhaustion (10); e) impaired hearing (1).
These include: a) failure to turn back; b) improper technique; c) lost ice ax while trying to self arrest; d) climber dislodged rock; e) harness came off; f) wasp attack; g) helmet broke; h) marijuana; i) dislocated knee while climbing; j) dislocated ankle while rappelling; k) improper instruction.
One case was under 3400 meters, one was on the Grand Teton, and one was on Mount Rainier.
These include eye injuries and fatigue/exhaustion.