FALL ON ROCK, TRIP ON ROPE

California, Yosemite Valley

On May 12,1985, Anthony Jankowski was seconding and Mark Sandefur (29) was leading the third pitch (5.10b) of Tightrope (III 5.11). He was about two to three meters above the third protection bolt (see Yosemite Climbs, by George Meyers) when he slipped off of his footholds. He slid on his hands and feet for about three to four meters, and as he passed the bolt, he grabbed for the rope to shorten his fall. Doing this somehow caused him to trip over the rope (maybe his foot caught on the loop forming below him) and he suddenly flipped over. His left hip slammed into the rock so hard that nearby climbers heard the impact.

Jankowski lowered him until, with the help of a nearby climbing party, Sandefur was able to traverse back to the belay. The pain was too great for him to be lowered to the ground so Jankowski rappelled for help, leaving ropes fixed in place. Meanwhile, Sandefur was able to take some of the weight off his harness by “standing” in slings with his right foot. (Source: John Dill, SAR Ranger, Yosemite National Park)

Analysis

Fifteen foot sliding falls occur every day on the Apron and are generally harmless. This was a freak injury, although other climbers could be warned to avoid tripping over their ropes. (Source: John Dill, SAR Ranger, Yosemite National Park)