RAPPEL FAILURE AND FALL/SLIP ON ROCK—Wyoming, The Tetons, Mt. Moran. Gerald Huntley (32) and Susan Huntley (29) were descending by rappel the East Ridge of the West Horn of Mt. Moran on the afternoon of

August 25. At a point several hundred feet above the base of the east ridge, Gerald fell when a rappel anchor failed. He suffered fractures of the skull, spine and wrist. His wife, Susan, rendered some first aid, left extra clothing and descended for help. After descending several hundred feet down the east ridge, somewhat north of the crest, Susan was killed in a fall, dying of a fractured neck at 7:00 p.m.

Sometime on August 26, Gerald began to descend himself. On August

8:30 a.m. the first helicopter search was instigated with negative results. At 8:30 a.m. on the 28th, Ranger Kimbrough made a reconnaisance flight, observing only a party of five on Drizzlepuss. A second flight on the 28th by Kimbrough and Carman located Gerald at 10:24 a.m. some 400 feet above the CMC Camp. Gerald was airlifted to Jenny Lake, given first aid and quickly interviewed to determine the location of his wife. Meanwhile, Kimbrough checked Huntle camp at the CMC Site and determined that Susan had probably not reached camp. Ranger Carman reconnoitered the East Ridge of the West Horn from the center and spotted Susan at 12:00 p.m. some 200-300 feet below Gerald’s accident and on the north side of the ridge-crest. Jackson and Carman then landed at the CMC Site and climbed up to the accident site with Kimbrough arriving at 2:00 p.m. Susan’s body was airlifted to Lupine Meadows Rescue Cache at 2:30 p.m. (Source: Tom Kimbrough, Grand Teton National Park)

Analysis: Several circumstances made the Huntley accident unusual in the Tetons. Although the accident occurred on August 25, the Huntleys were not overdue until August 28. This was one of those rare instances where an accident was not reported either by a member of the involved climbing party or by other climbers in the area. For three days there were no climbers in the area. The Huntleys had originally signed out for the CMC Route on Moran but while on the mountain changed their plans from the East Ridge of the West Horn. Gerald Huntley was severely injured when his rappel anchor failed upon descent. It is not clear what condition Susan was in when she set out for help. However, it is probable that she was confused and in a state of shock after observing Gerald’s severe injuries. At the time of her fall, she was on the North side of the East Ridge on a ledge system which at first glance appeared to extend to the Falling Ice Glacier which may have appeared to be a more expedient route of descent. When she saw that the ledge did not continue, she apparently retraced her steps and lost her footing while climbing back up from the ledge. Meanwhile, Gerald Huntley, unaware of his wife’s fate, rappelled and crawled some 1500 vertical feet from the accident scene for the next two days until he was spotted from the helicopter on August

During this time he had no food or water but ate Mountain Sorrel to combat dehydration. That he survived the ordeal is in itself remarkable. (Source: Peter Hart, Grand Teton National Park)