On June 26, 1974, Blair Mitten (21), an experienced climber who was a student in the Assistant Guides Course sponsored by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, was leading a mixed class 5 and easier pitch on the south side of Mt. Victoria. He was carrying a heavy pack and was apparently tied at the waist. He had placed one chock when he fell. This protection point held long enough to flip him upside down before it pulled out, allowing him to fall a considerable distance.

Mitten was wearing a standard Roamer helmet, but he sustained severe head injury. The webbing collapsed and transferred the force so completely that the extent of skull damage was not perceived from the condition of the hardhat. It is likely that paralysis on one side of his body was interpreted as a broken arm and/or leg. He was given a pain medicine, Demerol, which was a serious mistake given his head injury.

The victim was then evacuated from the accident site by Assistant Guides Course personnel, who then turned the victim over to an army unit. Mitten was taken to the Banff hospital and then rushed to Calgary, where he was in coma for five days. This was followed by a lengthy recovery from partial paralysis and loss of memory. The Assistant Guides Course did not inform the victim’s parents about the accident and only considerably later answered their letters inquiring about their son. (Source: Dick Culbert.)

Analysis

First, since the climber was carrying a heavy pack on a technical pitch, he should have been tied in with a chest harness. Second, a properly placed chock should be at least as strong as a piton. However, since chocks are placed rather than pounded, they can be less secure. This defect can be compensated for by frequent placement and long slings. Third, reliable mountaineering outlets do not sell poor quality helmets. This accident demonstrates the narrowness of the philosophy that “any helmet is better than no helmet at all.” A helmet should be judged not only by the strength of the shell, but by its ability to absorb shock from the side and the top, and to stay on the head in a fall. (Source: James Prior.)