Colorado, Boulder Mountain Park

Publication Year: 1974.

Colorado, Boulder Mountain Park. Dan Franks and Guy Jenks, both 18 and University of Colorado students, began climbing the Third Flatiron about noon on December 2nd. The weather was sunny and warm, but a major winter storm had been predicted for later in the day. The two climbers wore cotton jeans and cotton flannel shirts. The East Face of the “Third” is an easy and popular route — 800 feet of fourth class climbing protected by large belay bolts set at 120-foot intervals. Franks and Jenks may have reached the top and been unaware of the easy and short rappel off the back side. Or they may have been turned back by weather or darkness before reaching the summit. In gathering storm they began rappelling down the East Face, which is difficult with a single rope because of the distance between belay bolts and the lack of other anchors. About 400 feet above the start of the climb, they set a rappel anchor with a web sling over a flake. Jenks, a complete beginner, either rappelled off the end of the rope or lost his footing while attempting to downclimb after the rappel. He tumbled to his death. At about 10 p.m. the climbers were reported overdue, and simultaneously shouts were heard from the Flatiron. A Rocky Mountain Rescue team made vocal contact with Franks, who said that his friend had fallen and that his feet were numb. It was impossible to hear more in conditions of storm and heavy snowfall. It took the rescuers about two hours to reach Franks, climbing with crampons on “easy” rock whose difficulty was increased to 5.7 and 5.8 and which was largely unprotected. They found Franks dead. He, too, had fallen, though the distance is not known, and sustained injuries to his abdomen. (Sources: J. R. Herrington, W. G. May.)

Analysis: Franks had some climbing experience, Jenks was a beginner. Their level of experience and their equipment were not unusual for persons attempting the Third Flatiron in good conditions. But what suffices to ascend the Third becomes completely inadequate to descend it on rappel. Both climbers knew of the approaching storm which forced them to try to get off the face.