American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Alaska, Mt. McKinley

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1964

Alaska, Mt. McKinley. On 4 July while approaching the summit Richard Springgate’s foot was frostbitten due to (1) cold temperature (-16°F), (2) boot lacings tied too tightly, and (3) inadequate insulation in boot. Rewarming performed at 16,800 feet Camp and within the next 30 hours, Springgate was able to walk down to 7,000 feet pick-up site before blisters formed.

Source: Gerard Roach.

Analysis: Boots used were new U.S. Royal insulated. They had very thin insulation and were quite inadequate. He should have used “True” insulated Boots.

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