Colorado, Royal Gorge. A party consisting of Bob LaGrange, Bob Stafford, and Jim Disney had planned to climb the Carson City Buttress underneath the bridge across the Royal Gorge. M. E. Horn, Jr. and Charlie Love were also interested in this same climb; so they agreed to follow the first party on this eight lead ascent. At the beginning of the climb it was agreed that the second party should rope in at the end of the first party of three for purposes of retrieving pitons and for safety. The first three leads went very smoothly requiring about an hour and a half for all five climbers to reach the base of the fourth lead. At this point Bob LaGrange, who had been leading the entire rope, asked the leader of the second party, Horn, to spell him on the leading. The next three leads required about two and a half to three hours for Horn to reach the base of the seventh lead. At this point the entire party was slowed because of the extreme difficulty, lack of experience, and simple lack of speed. Horn was engaged in bringing the other climbers up to him over the sixth lead which was a very difficult direct aid due to the long stretches between pitons and necessity to climb free for very short moves. Love followed next and then LaGrange who still didn’t want to lead, particularly, because of the difficulty of the climbing up to that point. But in order to save time it was decided that LaGrange would start on the seventh lead belayed by Love while Horn was bringing up Stafford and Disney. The belay ledge was very adequate for two persons to belay at the same time (30 feet long by 6 feet wide). While Horn was belaying Stafford, LaGrange started up to the seventh lead belayed by Love. LaGrange climbed upon a four foot high boulder that was sitting on the ledge. From this position he placed a piton about 15 feet above the ledge and clipped the rope in. He proceeded to climb until his feet were about at the level of his piton. Being slightly to the left of adequate holds, he found the climbing extremely thin and strenuous to hold on. He stepped back down onto the boulder and said, “My arms are tired. I think I’ll rest awhile.” All this while thunder showers had been threatening and the party felt the necessity to get off the climb as fast as possible. After about ten minutes, LaGrange started up the seventh lead again still too far to the right and apparently not seeing the good holds about two feet to the left. He climbed until there was six feet of rope between his waist and the piton he had placed. He said “Watch it, Charlie, I’m going to fall.” He then jumped backward while Love pulled in all the slack rope possible. LaGrange was caught by the rope at the same instant his left foot hit the boulder causing a dislocated fracture. Love lowered LaGrange the few feet to the ledge where LaGrange immediately stripped off his Klettershoe. LaGrange sat quietly on the ledge until Stafford reached that point. Immediately Horn led the seventh lead belayed by Love while Stafford brought Disney up to the ledge. At this point Disney and Stafford had lost all morale and drive and hope of ever getting off the climb that day. As a result they moved very slowly on the next two leads to the top of the Gorge. These were not hard leads to follow; but their slowness was the main contributing factor to the extended period of time required by the rescue.

The fall had occurred about 2:30 P.M. By 4:30 P.M. the other four members were at the top of the seventh lead. Having attached a diaper sling to LaGrange, he was tied into the end of a single strand of rope. The four other members hauled him to the top of the seventh lead. Horn led the eighth, brought up Love, Disney, and Stafford. They then hauled LaGrange up the eighth lead in the same manner. From the top of the gorge he was supported on each side by a man and walked a short distance to the car. By 7:00 P.M. he was entered in the Canyon City Hospital. He was operated on for a dislocated fracture. The rest of the climbers returned to Boulder, Colorado that evening.

Source: M. E. Horn, Jr.

Analysis: The leader slipped from inadequate holds. He failed to judge the situation properly; he was slightly off route (he did not apparently see the adequate holds two or three feet to the left). He was tired and not mentally confident. He could have prevented the accident had he tried to slip down the face or lower himself from his shaky position instead of jumping backward and trusting the rope would catch him in time before he hit the ledge.

LaGrange was in great pain while waiting to be hauled up and approached a state of delirium. It is wise to keep such a victim tied in at all times and not to leave him alone.

This means of rescue would not have been possible had it not been for the party of five. To have rappelled would have taken much longer and would have been indirect in getting the victim to the road.

Speed was necessary to get the victim out of the gorge before the downpour that occurred soon after the rescue and because of his pain, and the approaching night.