Washington, Mount Olympus—On August 21, 1954, Ian MacKay, Anthony L. Levy (30), Robert Hegstrom (24) and Richard K. Neal, Jr. (24) left camp at 6:00 a.m. for an ascent of Mt. Olympus by way of the Hoh- blue pass. They reached the summit of the middle peak at 2:30 p.m. The descent was started at 3:00 p.m. To save time the party took what appeared to be a shorter route down to the Blue Glacier north of the east peak. This led to a rock descent with belays used on the more difficult areas. The party unroped two-thirds of the way down the rock face because the last rocks did not appear very difficult. Neal went first by himself and near the edge of the snow he slipped on some wet rock and fell 75 ft. into the bergschrund, fracturing his left heel. He wore smooth-soled boots. The others climbed down by a different route and finally located Neal at 7:00 p.m. A rope was dropped to Neal but became stuck on a ledge 5 ft. or so above him. Levy then insisted upon being lowered into the schrund. He soon contacted Neal. Neal was tied to two ropes and was pulled up by direct pulling. The party was not familiar with Prusik slings and none were used although they had three slings with them. There was difficulty getting Neal over the edge, but with Neal’s help this was finally accomplished after one-half hour of exhausting work.

Levy, meanwhile, had been exposed to the cold water spraying over him. He was dressed in bluejeans, part wool shirt, sweatshirt, and nylon parka. A rope weighted by an ice axe was dropped to him. The two men pulling could not get him closer than 15 ft. from the top. He was lowered and the Bilgeri method tried. Only MacKay knew of this but had never practiced it. Directions were given by shouts to Levy. Somehow the leg loops were not passed through the body loop so that he was turned upside down several times. Direct pulling was again attempted but Levy could not be brought up high enough to be removed from the crevasse. Many more tries were made until about midnight when the cold and exhausted party gave up and Levy was left hanging in waist loops 12 ft. below the surface. A six-man search party found them the next morning and quickly removed Levy’s body. He had apparently died of exposure some hours earlier.

Source: Personal accounts of the three survivors. Report by head ranger Olympus National Park; Victor Josendal; The Mountaineer 47:3-4, 1954 (Oct.).

Analysis: An imminent accident situation had been established for some time by a buildup of contributory causes such as late start, inexperienced party members taking short cut, and personality conflicts which undermine effective leadership. After the accident happened this party was not able to cope with the emergency situations. In addition, the party violated two rules: (1) Parties which climb in crevassed glaciers must be able to effect a rescue from a crevasse. (2) Never climb beyond one’s ability and knowledge.