Safety in the Mountains, Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club, 1949

Publication Year: 1949.

THE mountain accidents of the climbing year 1948 surpassed in number those of 1947. In 1947 there were 15 persons killed or injured; in 1948 this number rose to 28. Although not all the accidents of the 1948 season can be described strictly as mountaineering accidents, they all throw emphasis again on the recommendations offered in last year’s report.

It was pointed out last year that interest in mountaineering was increasing. This is still true. There is a large body of eager climbers who have not yet received sufficient training, and too often are fired with the romance of high conquest without appreciating the risks involved. The group needs and deserves guidance: it is a group that has contributed heavily to the toll, as the summaries of accidents will quickly show. Much of the preventive activity, therefore, should be directed at this large group of inexperienced and inadequately trained climbers. The first step, as recommended last year, is to encourage them to join an organized climbing group or club in which they can receive instruction and have a chance to gain experience under proper guidance. Second, literature and general information about the hazards of the various climbing areas should be made readily accessible to them. The National Park Service and U. S. Forest Service are aware of the need for information; and regional clubs, which should make efforts to reach all potential climbers in their areas, have generally undertaken likewise to act as disseminating agencies.

Last summer there was a great wave of accidents in the Alps. Many of the individuals concerned were English. Apparently the maintenance of monetary restrictions in Great Britain was one reason why so many English met with mishaps: aspiring climbers, unable to take sufficient funds out of the country, could not remain any length of time in the climbing districts, let alone afford guides.

With only a little time at their disposal, they took unusual risks in the effort to accomplish as much as possible. Further, since Great Britain has no truly Alpine heights, inexperienced climbers attempting the Alps without guides tended to overreach themselves.

The report presented herewith summarizes a number of safety programs now being carried forward by organizations throughout the country, and then reviews accidents which are known to have occurred in 1948.

Maynard M. Miller, Chairman

Ome Daiber

Benjamin G. Ferris, Jr.

M. Beckett Howortii Richard M. Leonard