Everest, East (Fantasy) Ridge attempt. The only expedition that did not attempt the standard Everest routes on the north and south side during the spring was a team of 10 Indian climbers and five Nepalese Sherpas led by Santosh Yadav, the first woman to climb Everest twice. This expedition made a brave attempt on the unclimbed east ridge, rising steeply from the middle of the east (Kangshung) face. The only other team to have tried this line was a Japanese expedition in 1991, which abandoned its attempt at 6400m because of the extremely difficult nature of the terrain and the dangerous avalanche potential. Yadav took large quantities of rope and equipment, and before going to the mountain said “I am 100 percent sure about my climbers and my equipment.” She could determine these factors but not the constant snow fall. With not a single full day of good weather throughout the expedition period from April 12 to May 24, and white out conditions even at base camp, with frequent avalanches and very few safe sites to establish camps beyond the team’s high point of 6900m, the expedition abandoned its attempt and went home, reportedly leaving all the ropes in place. Yadav said she was determined to try this route again.

Elizabeth Hawley