American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nameless Tower, Eternal Flame, Second Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Nameless Tower, Eternal Flame, Second Ascent. In June and July, Alberto Sepulveda, Jorge Couceiro, Jose Maria Andrés and José Vicente Sáez completed the second ascent of the 1100-meter route Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6257m). The first three climbers, Alberto, Jorge and Josemari, fixed 700 meters of rope and spent 20 days on the wall. Base Camp was placed at 4000 meters on June 6, Cl at 5100 meters on June 12, CII at 5500 meters on June 24 and CIII (portaledge camp) at 5900 meters on July 3. At this point, José Vicente was incorporated into the team, and we all finished the ascent on June 6 after 16 hours of activity. The descent was made the following day, stripping the route of the fixed ropes and the rest of the things and reaching Base Camp on July 8 at night. The climbing was conducted amidst unstable weather; we found the first part of the wall very covered with snow and ice, with avalanches very often. This made going up to the shoulder, where we placed CII, more difficult. We used two 60-meter and one 10.5- meter ropes, one set of stoppers, two sets of microcams, four sets of Friends, 25 quickdraws, and 40 carabiners to overcome the perfect cracks of the steep wall.

Jorge Couceiro, Spain

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