Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II Ascents and Attempts

Publication Year: 1995.

Gasherbrum II Ascents and Attempts. An international expedition climbed Gasherbrum II. On August 1, Americans Tom Hargis, leader, John Giban, Charlotte Fox and Randy Coffman, Ukrainian Oleg Banar, and Norwegians Bj0rn Arne Evensen, Simon Mordre and Eirik Trysto reached the summit. This was the first ascent by an American woman, by a Ukrainian and by Norwegians. On August 2, the leader of 10 Spaniards, Carlos Soria, got to the top with José Luis Hurtado, Antonio Tapiador, Javier Garrido, Juan Carlos Llamas and Pedro Nicolás. A Bosnian expedition led by Mohammad Gafic ran into difficulties. They established camps at 5900, 6400, 6900 and 7400 meters. On August 4, Oscar Prebanic was hit on the head by rockfall below Camp IV and despite severe bleeding was able to descend with help. A week later, while stormbound at Camp II, Nail Dervisevic fell seriously ill from high-altitude sickness and had to be evacuated through the joint efforts of a number of different expeditions. Under the leadership of Juan Ramón Jiménez, 5 Spaniards failed to get to the top. A strong party of 12 Italians whose leader was Abele Blanch was also unsuccessful.