American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, McKinley, Rapid Multiple Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1994

McKinley, Rapid Multiple Ascents. After 11 days of acclimatization, Brad Johnson left the 17,200-foot camp on May 19 and climbed round-trip to the north summit and back in 3 hours 40 minutes. The next day, he and companions climbed to the south summit. They descended to 14,200 feet and had a rest day. On May 23, Johnson soloed from there to the south peak in five hours, climbed the north peak and was back in ten hours, covering 11 miles and gaining 8000 feet. This was possibly the second ascent of both summits from 14,200 feet in one day, the first having been Andy Lapkass in 1985.

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