American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Western China, Tuomur or Pik Pobedy Attempt and Tragedy

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1991

Tuomur or Pik Pobedy Attempt and Tragedy, Tien Shan. This 7439-meter (24,407-foot) peak, the highest in the Tien Shan, lies on the boundary between China and the Soviet Union. It is called Tuomur by the Chinese and Pik Pobedy by the Soviets. Its south face was attempted by a 14-member Japanese expedition led by Hidetsugu Nishibori. Nishibori, Makoto Inoue and Masahiko Ito established Camp III at 6300 meters on August 6 and the next day continued placing fixed ropes up to 6450 meters. Apparently they communicated by radio that night from Camp III, but nothing was ever heard later. The following day, two other members climbed to Camp III, which they found had been swept away by an avalanche.

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