North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks on the Eastern Side of the Ruth Gorge
Peaks on the Eastern Side of the Ruth Gorge. After four weeks in the Yosemite, Helmut Neswadba and I felt we had sufficient preparation for our Alaskan climbing. We were flown to the Ruth Glacier on June 30. Taking advantage of good weather, we attempted the 1200-meter-high east buttress of Mount Johnson, but after we had been climbing for 24 hours, we rappelled off because of rotten rock and deteriorating weather. After a week of bad weather, on July 14 we climbed the 1300-meter-high southwest face of P 7979 on the eastern side of the Ruth Gorge, 1½ miles northwest of Glacier Point. We climbed a gully to a snow basin and snowfield and thence onto a ridge where there was good rock with some UIAA V+ and some mixed climbing. We descended the north side where we had eight rappels until we could descend the glacier to the Ruth. Because of continuing good weather we chose a 1000-meter-high rock buttress of P 7500 (“Tower of London South”), which lies 1¼ miles northwest of P 7979. On July 17, we started up to do the climb alpine-style. We got to the summit after 20 difficult pitches at 8:30 A.M. the next day. (UIAA VIII+, A2 or 5.11d, A2.) The weather was perfect. That same day, we descended rappelling and down-climbing. We were flown out on July 22.
Hannes Arch, Ösierreichischer Alpenverein