American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face, German and Pakistani Success

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face, German and Pakistani Success. I organized this small expedition but gave the leadership over to German Dr. Ekkert Gundelach. The other members were Swiss Diego Wellig, Philipp Zehnder and Peter Schwitter. They reached Base Camp at 4200 meters in the Diamir valley on June 18. On the first night, Schwitter fell ill with pulmonary edema and had to descend. The Mummery Rib was in wintry condition and offered no chance for an ascent. On June 21, an expedition of Pakistani army officers arrived at Base Camp; with them that made five expeditions there since another German one, plus Koreans and Yugoslavs, got there ahead of our group. On June 23, our three healthy members climbed Ganalo Peak for acclimatization and then set up a tent at 5300 meters. At that same time, a Korean fell 1000 meters down the Sigi Löw Ice Couloir to his death. Both the Koreans and the Yugoslavs abandoned the climb. On June 29, Zehnder and Wellig established Camp II and the next day advanced to Camp III before returning to Base Camp. After six days of snowfall, that pair decided to return to Switzerland. That left only Dr. Gundelach. He asked if he might join the Pakistanis. On July 9, Gundelach and six Pakistanis climbed to Camp II and the next day to Camp III at 6000 meters. On July 11, they all carried loads to 7100 meters at the top of the Kinshofer Icefield. The day after, Gundelach broke trail to the Bazhin Basin and returned to Camp IV at 7300 meters. On July 13, Gundelach, Shah Khan (son of the uncle of the Mir of Hunza) and Lieutenant Atta climbed to the summit, which they reached at five P.M. in falling snow. Gundelach and Shah Khan made it back to Camp IV which they reached at ten P.M., greeted by two Pakistanis, who had come up from Camp III in support. Atta survived a cold bivouac and got to Camp IV in the morning. All five descended to Base Camp, where they were received by the colonel with flowers. On July 18, two Pakistani generals arrived by helicopter to celebrate the first Pakistani success on Nanga Parbat.

Karl Maria Herrligkoffer, Deutsches Institut für Auslandsforschung

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