Changtse. I was the leader of a 16-person Italian expedition to Changtse in July and August. We got to Base Camp at 5100 meters late in July. Camps I, II and III were at 5850, 6250 and 6900 meters, the latter on the ridge of Changtse. Because of much snow on the long ridge, we climbed to 6900 meters by a new route on the southeast face. On August 9, Zefferino Moreschini, Filippo Sala and Franco Vivarelli reached the summit of Changtse (7583 meters, 24,879 feet). On August 12, Stefano Mazzoli, Ermanno Boccolari, Duzzi Loris and Soci Roberto also got to the top.

Arturo Bergamaschi, Club Alpino Italiano