K2, Abruzzi Ridge. Our expedition had 19 members. An advance party of four accompanied 290 porters and got to Base Camp on June 20. The main party reached Base Camp on June 23. We set up Advance Base at 5300 meters on June 25. We established Camps I, II and III at 6200, 6800 and 7350 meters on June 27, July 3 and 8. We tried to occupy Camp IV at about 8000 meters, but bad weather drove us back. A five-man summit team started on July 16 but with bad weather our attack failed. On July 30 Jang Bong-Wan, Kim Chang-Sun and Jang Byong-Ho left Base Camp and on August 2 set up Camp IV at 8000 meters. On August 3 they left Camp IV for the summit, while seven other climbers stayed in their tents. Each Korean had one cylinder of oxygen, used on the ascent but not the descent. They reached the summit at 4:16 P.M. An hour later two Poles and a Czech also got to the summit. Wojciech Wróz slipped, fell and was killed at 8200 meters on the descent. Possibly he rappelled off the end of a fixed rope. On August 4 our team descended to Advance Base.

Kim Byung-Joon, Korean Alpine Federation