Asia, Nepal, Langtang Lirung

Publication Year: 1987.

Langtang Lirung. Our expedition climbed Langtang Lirung by the southeast ridge, previously ascended by Japanese in 1980 and 1981. We were Fukashi Suzuki, Takashi Miyazaki, Toshiyuki Fukui, Toshiaki Jinnai, Takayoshi Taga, Takashi Takeuchi, Tomoharu Tada, Dr. Naoto Toma and I as leader. On March 23 we reached Base Camp beside the Langtang Glacier at 4200 meters. Camp I was placed at 4800 meters on March 28. The route to Camp II ascended a gully and was placed in the col at the foot of the southeast ridge at 5600 meters on April 5 after four days of storm. The most difficult part of the climb was between Camps II and III on the ridge, where we fixed rope and wire ladders on steep rock and ice. Camps III and IV were established at 6100 and 6500 meters on April 19 and 29. On May 3 Fukui, Taga, Tada and Takeuchi reached the summit (7234 meters, 23,734 feet).

Kenryo Numa, Himalayan Alpine Club of Ohtani, Japan