Gaurishankar Attempt. After two weeks of bureaucracy in Kathmandu, Iñaki Alvarez, Koldo Tapia, Txema Cámara and I were finally able to take the bus to Charikot, arriving there on September 11. The approach was very difficult because of the monsoon rains, the stream crossings, the bamboo forests and the leeches. [Other reports say they also had difficulties with the local police. — Editor. ] We got to Base Camp at 4800 meters on September 16, the 5400-meter col on the 17th and Advance Base at 4300 meters on the glacier on the 18th. The route to be attempted was on the southwest face left of the Ros- kelley route. On September 20 and 21 we bivouacked at 5500 and 6000 meters and climbed to 6100 meters on the 22nd. The weather was continuously bad with avalanches sweeping the face. We descended to Base Camp. Despite the weather we did climb two virgin peaks: Tsirigma Ikuspegi (5430 meters, 17,815 feet) and P 4830 (15,847 feet). In the first week of October, we tried another attack, getting to our supply depot. On October 6 we left the mountain.

Jaime Alonso. Alpino Tabira Mendizale Taldea, Spain