Kangtega Attempt and Ama Dablam Ascent. German Hans Eitel led a group of ten from Germany, Austria, the United States and the South Tirol. Eight first attempted Kangtega by its southeast face while two went directly to Ama Dablam. Six and a Sherpa reached a high point of 6000 meters on Kangtega on April 8 and then withdrew from the mountain two days later when dangerous avalanching continued. They then went to Ama Dablam, where the other two had already pitched two camps, to try the west face. The Kangtega party did little climbing there. The summit was reached in nine hours on April 15 by South Tiroleans Alois Brugger and Kurt Walde who began their summit push from Camp II at the bottom of the west face early that morning. They climbed the central couloir, a new route to the right of the 1985 Japanese route. They descended the normal south-ridge route and were back in Base Camp on the morning of the 16th.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley