South America, Peru-Cordillera Blanca, Carás II, Southeast Face

Publication Year: 1987.

Carás II, Southeast Face. Our expedition established two separate Base Camps in early July. [The Cayesh portion of the group of Jerry Gore and Terry Moore is covered elsewhere.] From the Laguna Parón Base Camp, Julian Fisher, Andy Warfield and I made the ascent of the unclimbed southeast face of Nevado Carás II. We reached the east ridge some 300 meters from the summit but did not continue because of cloud, fatigue and the lack of time and bivouac gear. The line taken followed the rightmost of three obvious couloirs running the height of the face. We reached it by a complicated and awkward approach through an icefall. The route was almost entirely on snow and ice of 45° to 75°. The crux pitch was at about half-height, being 80 feet of nearly vertical hollow ice and rock. We descended with 14 abseils down the line of ascent. The ascent and descent took three days from July 9 to 11.

Mark Sheldrake, The Lemmings, England