American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri, East Face in Winter

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Dhaulagiri, East Face in Winter. Swiss climbers Erhard Loretan, Jean Troillet, Pierre-Alain Steiner and Pierre Morand began activity on November 21 when they left their Base Camp to begin carries to the foot of the east face. They wanted to do the 1980 route of Kurtyka, Wilczynski, MacIntyre and Ghilini. Morand had altitude problems and had to withdraw. The other three set out on December 7 at one A.M. To lighten their loads Loretan and Steiner left their sleeping bags behind. The first of the route was up a nearly perpendicular gully. Then a slope of organ pipes seemed interminable. However they had climbed 2000 meters by five P.M. The night at 7700 meters was particularly frigid for the two without sleeping bags. They set out on the morning of December 8 at nine-o’clock and got to the summit at two P.M. This was the ninth 8000er for Loretan.

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