The Tusk, West Ridge. The view of the Florence Range from the abandoned lodge at Ben-My-Chree on Tagish Lake is dominated by a sharp pointed peak with twin summits known locally as the Tusk. The summit of the Tusk is easily attained by a steep talus slope on its southeast flank. The west ridge, however, had not been attempted before Ed Weyrembeck and I climbed it on July 24. Although we roped up for two short pitches, most of our route is exciting 3rd and 4th class scrambling on an exposed knife-edge arête (II, 5.7). The north face of the Tusk is split by a deep cleft which strongly resembles the Super-Couloir on Fitzroy. The buttresses on either side of this couloir would both provide grade 4 or 5 big-wall routes, but the metamorphosed volcanic rock is of dubious quality.

Walter Vetinum