American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Shisha Pangma

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Shisha Pangma. Six of a nine-man American party ascended Shisha Pangma in the first week of May by the northeast face, the original 1964 Chinese route. It was the second ascent by Americans and the ninth ascent. The party consisted of Jerry Clayton, Dr. Steven Creer, David Howe, Mark Jenkins, Douglas Kelley, Carl Lehner, Michael Lehner, Michael Wingert and me as leader. We established Base Camp at 5150 meters on April 15, Camp I at 5490 meters on the 19th and Camp II (Advanced Base) at 5850 meters on April 21, using yaks to within a quarter mile of camp. The next 12 days were spent establishing a route and ferrying loads up the crevassed, snow-covered glacier to establish Camp III at 6400 meters on the 26th and Camp IV on May 1. Camp V at 7225 meters was occupied on the 4th and Camp VI at 7680 meters the next day. On May 6 the summit was reached by Howe, Jenkins, Kelley and Wingert. Two days later Creer and Michael Lehner got to the top.

Joseph E. Murphy

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