Lhotse. A Japanese expedition led by Kazuyuki Takahashi climbed Lhotse by the normal route in the post-monsoon season. The Lhotse climb was for high-altitude acclimatization for a winter ascent of Everest via the South Col by this party and by another party on the north face led by Takahashi’s wife, Michiko Imai. On Lhotse they had 14 Sherpas above Base Camp, including a few “Icefall Sherpas,” who never slept above Base Camp. They all used artificial oxygen while sleeping in Camp IV at 25,750 feet and climbing to the summit. On October 9 climbing leader Noboru Yamada, Takashi Ozaki and Kazunari Murakami reached the summit. Tsutomu Miyazaki, Takashi Kagawa and Sherpa Dawa Norbu on October 10 and Takahashi, Shigeru Suzuki and Sherpa Pemba Nuru on October 14 also climbed to the top.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley