American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Bhrikuti, Damodar Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Bhrikuti, Damodar Himal. This peak is situated north of Kagbeni (and north of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs). The area was opened for expeditions only in 1982. The first to obtain a permit to enter the restricted area was an 11-man Japanese group led by Kaoru Kikuchi. They were joined by three Nepalese of the Tribhuvan University Hamalayan Club; co-leader Kishore Bhattarai, Tashi Jangbo Sherpa and Kapil Shrestha. A reconnaissance group, earlier in 1982, had found that an approach via Manang was not feasible and so they trekked along the south bank of the Chhiley Khola and not in Mustang proper. The western approach was previously unexplored. The expedition left Pokhara on April 24 and reached Jomosom on May 1. The area east of Kagbeni and Chuchang was unknown even to officials. The terrain beyond Chuchang is difficult for porters. They got to Base Camp on May 10. Camp I was occupied on the glacier on May 15 and Camp II on the west ridge at 19,800 feet on May 17. On May 19 Tashi Jangbo Sherpa, Takashi Sakuma and Masanobu Tsuchiya reached the virgin summit (6720 meters, 22,047 feet). On May 20 Sakatashi Yamagata and Kijuro Endo got to the top, followed on May 21 by leader Kikuchi, Sutemi Terada, Isao Niitsuma, Akie Asami, co-leader Kishore Bhattarai and for a second time Tsuchiya.

Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club

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