American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Vilcanota, Ausangate

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Ausangate. We left Tinki on June 13 and traveled through Upis to Pucacocha. We climbed to a pass between Pucacocha and Ausangate- cocha on Ausangate’s south ridge and started up the ridge. At 17,000 feet we traversed right to camp on the southeast ridge at 17,400 feet. After reaching 18,000 feet on the southeast ridge, we traversed left past the séracs. On June 26 Toshiyuki Kusama, Masami Manamikawa, Tadao Kuda and I climbed to the summit of Ausangate. On June 28 Kimito Koeke and Shoji Sasaki reached the top. We also climbed P 5630 (18,471 feet), Doris (5430 meters, 17,815 feet), Huayna Ausangate (5360 meters, 17,586 feet) and Tacusiri (5350 meters, 17,553 feet).

Masami Shimizu, Shirakaba Expedition, Japan

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