South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán, Southeast Ridge Attempt

Publication Year: 1981.

Huascarán, Southeast Ridge Attempt. Our group consisted of Hubert Stampfer, Horst Kahl, Kurt Kirchner and me. After acclimatization climbs on Yanapactsa Noroeste and Pisco Oeste on June 3 and 6, we set off up the Quebradas Ulta and Mátara to Base Camp on a lake at 15,550 feet. On June 11 we climbed to the glacier at 17,000 feet and up the southeast ridge to camp at 18,375 feet; there were short, steep steps with easier terrain between. On the 12th we climbed first snow and ice and then a rotten ridge. At 19,000 feet one of our comrades fell with a large block some 50 feet into a gully, but was held. He had head wounds, a concussion and nausea. We bivouacked there. The next day we had to help the injured climber back to 18,375 feet. The evacuation on the 14th was aided by two of our porters. He recovered in the hospital in Huaraz. The ridge is rather more dangerous because of rotten rock than difficult. It was first climbed in 1971 by New Zealanders.

Hannes Zechel, Österreichischer Alpenverein