South America, Colombia, Sierra Nevada de Cocuy

Publication Year: 1981.

Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. An 8-man Polish expedition led by Zdzi- slowski was active in the Sierra Nevada de Cocuy.* They made six new routes, given here with altitude, height of the climb and UIAA rating: Pan de Azúcar (5100 meters, 16,733 feet; 1640 feet; IV-V) via northeast buttress by D. Naszynski, P. Nowacki and Colombian J.P. Ruiz on February 12; Cóncavo (5268 meters, 17, 284 feet; 2625 feet; III-IV) via right part of north face by Naszynski, Nowacki on February 16; Ritacuba Negro (5389 meters, 17,680 feet) via northeast ridge (III) by

Naszynski, Olszewski on March 3 and via east buttress (1640 feet; V+) by the same pair on March 5 and 6; Pico Blanco (5012 meters, 16,706 feet; 2625 feet; III-IV) via west buttress by M. Malatynski, A. Pietraszek, A. Sobolewski on March 5; Castillo (5123 meters, 16,808 feet; 2625 feet; IV-V) via northwest buttress by Malatynski, Pietraszek, Sobolewski on March 7. After this, Nowacki and Olszewski entered the Cordillera Central, where they made a new route on March 24, the 3300-foot-high west face of the north peak (5300 meters, 17,389 feet) of the Nevado del Huila, which they rated as UIAA III.

Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

* So far, only three charts of the Sierra Nevada de Cocuy (or Güicán) have been printed: the sketch map by King and Notestein, published in G.R. 1932, p. 425, a geological map by K. Stauffer, of Shell-Cóndor, and the official 1:100,000 1973 map by the Instituto Geográfico Agustín Coddazzi, Bogotá (sheet 137, El Cocuy). The two first agree on most heights but their figures are much higher than those used by Colombian mountaineers. The following heights were taken from the two first sources mentioned above. (The official Colombian map did not include heights) : Pan de Azúcar (apparently the peak locally and officially known as Nevado del Púlpito) 5210 m., 17,093 ft; Cóncavo, 5268 m., 17,284 ft; Ritacuba Negro (unofficial name) 5389 m., 17,680 ft; Pico Blanco, 5092 m., 16,706 ft; Pico del Castillo, 5123 m„ 16,808 ft.—Evelio Echevarría.