North America, Western Canada, Mount Tiedeman and Other Peaks, Radiant Glacier, Coast Range

Publication Year: 1980.

Mount Tiedemann and Other Peaks, Radiant Glacier, Coast Range. On July 16, Joe Firey, Dave Knudson, Michael Martin, Frank de Saussure, Hansueli Hösli and I flew by helicopter to a 7100-foot Base Camp on the Radiant Glacier from Buff Lake. In a day and a half we packed our camp up the badly broken part of the glacier to a high camp at about 10,000 feet. We were hampered by soft snow on the ascent and throughout the trip. An attempt to reach the Asperity-Tiedemann col was turned back by an ice wall, a barrier that was less formidable when Joan Firey and Piro Kramar made the second ascent of Asperity in 1974. The col gives access not only to Asperity but to the attractive unclimbed east ridge of Tiedemann—one of our objectives. This small plum is one of many that remain to be plucked in this area. We climbed Damocles Peak in two groups on July 17 and 18 and climbed Tiedemann by its north ridge on July 19. We were the fifth party to climb the peak and the fourth to use this ridge. We descended to our base at 7100 feet on July 22 and climbed Chaos, Unicorn and Centaur Peaks from that camp. Ours was apparently the first party to climb these peaks since Richard Culbert and Glen Woodsworth first climbed them in 1964. A first ascent was made on the peak between Centaur and Unicorn for which we propose the name Satyr. Our route gained the south ridge from snow and rock to the east and was third class except for one pleasant fifth-class pitch. We flew out July 28. All members of the party climbed each of the peaks mentioned except for Centaur, which was climbed only by Mike Martin and myself. The new 92N/6 map of this area and the convenience of White Saddle Air Service were greatly appreciated.

Peter Renz