American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Ghent II, Second Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Ghent II, Second Ascent. A 10-man Japanese expedition led by Harutoshi Kobayashi made the second ascent of Ghent II (24,092 feet), which had been climbed first by Austrians in 1977. Base Camp was established on the Kondus Glacier at 13,450 feet. The party climbed the northeast ridge. Camps were established at 14,100, 15,750, 18,700, 20,000 and 21,650 feet on May 27, 31, June 7, 22 and 26 respectively. Camp VI was placed at 23,000 feet near the top of Mount Depak on June 27. On July 15 Joshi Wada, Nobuaki Ogawa and Kenji Itakura climbed to the summit. On the 16th Tokio Tekenaka, Masato Okamoto and Yoshinori Ikeda and on the 17th Kobayashi and Hiroshi Yamamoto also reached the top.

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