American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia—Cordillera Real, Kimsakolyo, Lloca de Ancohuma and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Kimsakolyo, Lloca de Ancohuma and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Pere Aymerich, Francesc Banqué, Jordi Canals, Dr. Marçal Castaño, Jaume Rovira and me. On July 30 Aymerich and Canals made a route in the Huayna Potosí region: the northwest ridge of Maria Lloco (or Mamailloca). We climbed in the northern part of the Cordillera Real near Sorata, above the Coocó valley, from August 4 to 15. We placed our Base Camp on Laguna Chearcota at 15,425 feet and Camps I and II at 17,400 and 18,050 feet on the Coocó Glacier. We made the following ascents: Buenavista II (18,537 feet) and traverse to Jancopiti I (19,292 feet) by Aymerich, Blanch, Canals on August 7; Buenavista I (18,045 feet) by Banqué, Castaño on August 8; Kimsakolyo (19,259 feet) and Lloca de Ancohuma (19,882 feet) by Aymerich, Blanch, Canals on August 10; Viluyo III (18,373 feet) by Blanch, Banqué on August 15; Haltatawa (18,373 feet) by Aymerich, Canals, Rovira on August 15. We set up a camp on the Ancohuma col but bad weather prevented our ascent.

Conrad Blanch, Centre Excursionista de Catalunya, Spain

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