American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Montana, Ross Peak, Northeast Face Direct, Bridger Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1977

Ross Peak, Northeast Face Direct, Bridger Range. On June 28 Gary Skaar, Kurt Martinsen and I packed via the middle fork of Brackett Creek to this relatively unknown face, which is hidden by a lateral moraine. In the afternoon we climbed two short and one long free pitches and bivouacked 250 feet up. The next morning Gary led an A4 aid pitch up an arching crack on which I had taken a zipper the day before. At the top of this pitch we were forced off by rain and snowfall. We scrambled up 100 feet and traversed ledges to a snow couloir, which we then descended. On August 19 Skaar and I returned, ascended our previous descent route to where we could belay down to our last belay on the ascent route. The next lead went up a dihedral and was followed by two easier pitches. A lead of difficult mixed climbing had two aid placements and the most demanding free climbing of the route. One more easy rope-length took us to the top. NCCS IV, F9, A4.

Jack E. Tackle, Unaffiliated

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