American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Hiunchuli Patan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Hiunchuli Patan. Our party consisted of Roger Breakall, J. Darling, J. Gostling and me. We arrived in the vicinity of Hiunchuli Patan (28° 55'N, 82° 40'E) on September 30 but it took us two weeks to force a way through a trackless bamboo forest and establish Base Camp at the foot of the mountain. We all climbed the northeast ridge of the north summit on October 19, a fine climb, but once on the top, we found that the south summit (c. 19,600 feet) was about 150 feet higher. Our subsequent attempt on the east ridge of the main peak was abandoned some 800 feet below the top on October 28 due to dangerous snow conditions. Neither of the two ridges was technically easy. The other ridges and faces we saw appear considerably harder.

Andrew Russell, Oxford University Mountaineering Club

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