American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Lone Pine Peak, South-Southeast Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Lone Pine Peak, South-Southeast Face. From the Stone House the south-southeast face of Lone Pine Peak presents the following features: a large couloir starts to the right of the lowest point of the face and ends very high beneath a steep step through which the route finishes; to the right of the large couloir a huge ledge can be seen in the middle of the face; last, still on the right, the wall is limited by an ill-defined ridge with many pillars. On July 12 and 13, Tom Birtley and I climbed a new route. It starts below the left side of the huge ledge, to the left of an overhanging cascade. Ascend some short walls, tending to the left, to reach a gully and the huge ledge (F2). Follow the ridge above the left comer of the ledge (F1) and descend easily from a small col to reach the large couloir ending in F4. After 300 easy feet in the couloir the route goes on the right on excellent rock, following a deep cleft in the main face for most of the 14 pitches to the summit plateau. The first overhang is climbed by its left chimney (F7), the second and third with aid to the left (Al, 3 pitons and Al, 10 pitons). The last is avoided by a traverse to the right (F6) which leads to a very hard chimney (F9, 1 piton). From the couloir to the plateau, the climbing is fairly sustained. The roundtrip from the Stone House takes about 18-20 hours. In all, 25 pitons and 25 nuts. NCCS IV, F9, Al.

Henri Agresti, Club Alpin François

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.