South America, Peru, Central Peru, Cordillera Huaytapallana and Peak near Huagaruncho

Publication Year: 1973.

Cordillera Huaytapallana and Peak near Huagaruncho. Hiroshi Koizumi, Naoki Toda, Yoshikazu Koizumi and I left Huancayo on May 7 and reached Base Camp in the Huaytapallana quickly that day. The weather was bad and it rained almost every day. We climbed Nevado Ichu (16,897 feet) up the rock ridge which is at the right from the lake. Unfortunately we had to carry down one of our members who fell sick with soroche, but we returned from Huancayo a few days later. Camp I was on the rock projection and Camp II beyond Yanacocha. On May 24 we reached the summit of Nevado Jaya (17,618 feet) in fine weather. There were at the end six pitches of steep snow to reach the corniced summit. We then climbed P 5291 (17,359 feet), a mile and a half west of Huagaruncho in the Cordillera Central.

Kunimoto Kamachi, Yama No Nakama, Japan