Mount Andromeda, Columbia Icefields. David Hambre, urged by George Lowe, suggested something yet undone in the Columbia Icefields. Early on the morning of August 26 we three set off for the north cirque on the west side of Mount Andromeda. Just left of the northeast-facing rock bands, the route began over the awkwardly overhanging bergschrund onto firm 50° ice. While the ice continued at this angle for eight pitches, George and I raced the clock with a leader belay; our best times were about equal: four minutes a pitch. The tenth lead inclined more severely and on the eleventh George led us over the top on a nearly vertical section.

Jocelyn Glidden