American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordilleras Vilcanota and Carabaya, Campa Group and Southeast Ridge of Pachanta, Cordillera Vilcanota

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1971

Campa Group and Southeast Ridge of Pachanta, Cordillera Vilcanota. From July 6 to 24 Monsieur J. and Mme S. Badier, M. Berquet, J. R. Bertucca, Mme N. Casile, G. Cerruti, C. Choquet, Dr. M. and Mme A. Drevet, Mile M. F. Gay, Mile L. Laporte, M. Soulier and I climbed in the Cordillera Vilcanota in the cirque just northeast of Ausangate. Leaving from Ocongate on July 6, we made our Base Camp the next day near Tinki, the Campa col and Mariposa. Despite heavy snowfall from July 8 to 11 and again on July 20, we were able to make the following climbs: Campa I* (5485 meters or 17,995 feet) on July 8 by Mme S. Badier, Mme N. Casile, J. Badier, Berquet, Bertucca, Choquet, Soulier; Campacito (5390 meters or 17,684 feet) on July 12 by Mile Laporte and me; Campa II (5611 meters or 18,409 feet) on July 13 by Berquet, Bertucca, Cerruti, Choquet; Chico (5700 meters or 18,701 feet) traversed from west to east with a bivouac, followed by the ascent of Mariposa (5818 meters or 19,089 feet) on July 14 and 15 by Choquet and me; P 5580 (18,307 feet; southeast of Campa II) on July 17 by Mile Gay, Mme and M. Drevet; Pico Doris (5460 meters or 17,914 feet) on July 19 by Mile Gay and Soulier; and Tinki (5450 meters or 17,881 feet) on July 22 by Mme Badier, Bertucca, Cerruti. Mme Badier, Berquet, Choquet and I made the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Pachanta (5727 meters or 18,789 feet) on July 19, a very beautiful but difficult climb of some 2600 vertical feet. A violent thunder storm stopped us one easy rope-length from the summit.

Bernard Amy, Club Alpin Frangais

*These peaks may be found on the map which appears with Ihr Herren Berge, by Gunter Hauser. Stuttgart: Engelhornverlag, 1959. Campacito lies between Campa I and Campa II. Pico Doris is on the southeastern end of the ridge that descends from Kakakiru and Mariposa. Tinki is a half-mile west of Caracol.-Editor.

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